All About Rosemary

When you start a project like beginning gardening you must have learning all about rosemary in mind.

All About Rosemary

By: Carol Saville

Rosemary means "dew of the sea," an appropriate name for this popular garden herb, watered by the ocean mists in its native habitat along the arid coastline of the Mediterranean.

Because of rosemary’s long history — literary, cosmetic, culinary and medicinal — an herb garden without rosemary is unthinkable. But this versatile evergreen needn’t be relegated only to the herb garden.

"Rosemary forms extraordinary hedges and can be clipped into fancy topiary — even bonsai for those with the patience," says Northern California landscape designer Rosalind Creasy. "It’s a gleaming focal point in the perennial garden or mixed border," she adds. Rosemary is a must in a fragrance garden, and it’s the cornerstone of a drought-tolerant garden. The prostrate forms look bountiful in containers and hanging baskets, and in the mild-winter USDA Hardiness Zones 9 and 10, they create an impressive evergreen ground cover. A tender perennial in colder climates, rosemary must spend the winter indoors, where good air circulation is a must for survival.

A Selection of Rosemaries

Rosmarinus officinalis is the classic culinary, upright rosemary with opposite, needlelike gray-green leaves that are 1/2- to 11/2-inches long with powdery white undersides. The plant bears two-lipped pale blue flowers in little clusters toward the end of the branches. This evergreen shrub grows three to five feet tall.

R. officinalis ‘Majorca Pink’ is from the Balearic Islands in the Spanish Mediterranean. Similar in growth to (R. officinalis), it has shorter resinous leaves and lovely pink flowers. Planted next to one of the blue-flowering varieties, its amethyst-pink flowers stand out vividly.

R. officinalis ‘Tuscan Blue’ is a tall-growing upright rosemary, with branches that can reach six feet tall that grow dramatically from the base of the plant. Used for hedges to border small fields in Tuscany, ‘Tuscan Blue’ is a handsome plant with exceptionally dark blue flower spikes and highly aromatic pale green leaves that lend themselves to cooking and drying. Along with the other tall rosemaries, it is more suitable for growing in warmer climates, but it can also be grown in short-season regions.

"During our growing season from May to October, both ‘Tuscan Blue’ and ‘Miss Jessopp’ grow 11/2 feet tall and wide," notes Louise Hyde, owner, with her husband, Cy, of Well-Sweep Herb Farm in northern New Jersey. Peter Borchard, of Companion Plants, a specialty herb nursery in Athens, Ohio, concurs. "During the summer, ‘Tuscan Blue’ can put on four feet of growth before bringing it indoors for the winter," he says. "It can be potted up in a five-gallon container and placed in a sunny room with good air circulation until spring."

R. officinalis ‘Miss Jessopp’s Upright’ is named after the English gardener Miss Euphemia Jessopp. In 1957, a cutting from a plant growing at Sissinghurst Castle was propagated by the plantswoman Elizabeth de Forest in her Santa Barbara, California, garden, and this rosemary was then introduced into the nursery trade. Hardy to zone 8, it can grow from five to eight feet tall and has slate blue flowers and highly aromatic dark gray-green leaves.

R. officinalis ‘Arp’ is the introduction of the distinguished plantswoman, garden author and herb afficionado, Madalene Hill of Roundtop, Texas. In 1987 she discovered an extremely hardy rosemary growing in the hamlet of Arp, in northeast Texas. She introduced it into the nursery trade via the National Herb Garden in Washington,

D.C., where it was first grown. ‘Arp’, along with another of her cold-hardy rosemary discoveries, R. officinalis ‘Hill Hardy’, is one of the hardiest rosemaries, surviving the winter with protection to zone 6. ‘Arp’ grows from three to five feet tall, has light blue to almost white flowers and has thick, widely spaced, fragrant leaves grayer than (R. officinalis). It requires excellent drainage.

R. officinalis ‘Prostratus’ grows one to two feet tall and three to eight feet wide with 3/4-inch, glossy dark green leaves that have a mild, piney fragrance. The flowers are a delicate lavender-blue. Another excellent prostrate rosemary is the vigorous grower and bloomer, (R. officinalis) ‘Lockwood de Forest’, a California cultivar introduced from a seedling discovered in the Santa Barbara garden of the de Forest family in the 1940s. It has lighter leaves and deeper blue flowers than ‘Prostratus’.

R. officinalis angustifolius — pine-scented

rosemary — is from Corsica and is not considered culinary. It smells like a Christmas tree and grows as tall as a small one, from 21/2 to 4 feet, with slender, needle-shaped leaves and dark blue flowers. It is hardy to 25oF (zone 9b). A choice cultivar is ‘Benenden Blue’, a semiprostrate shrub that grows to three feet tall, with a curious growth habit: its initially erect branches arch, then begin to gracefully grow sideways.

How to Grow Rosemary

Rosemary and its cultivars are best started from plants. When grown from seed, germination is slow with variable results. Plants can be set out in the spring when the weather has warmed in zones 1 through 9, and in spring or fall in zone 10.

All rosemaries require full sun, but in the warmer climates they will accept some light shade. They thrive in a light, well-drained, average garden soil with a pH range of 5 to 8. During the growing season, pinch back growth tips two or three inches to promote bushy plants; cut back hard only in early spring to allow the new growth time to mature.

Most rosemary varieties are reliably hardy to only 20oF (zone 9a); however, gardeners in cold-winter areas can successfully grow rosemary indoors in a container with a fast-draining potting soil. Bring the plants indoors at least several weeks before your area’s first frost date. Feed the potted rosemary regularly with fish emulsion and provide good air circulation to ward off harmful mildew.

 

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This post was written by admin on March 31, 2009

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Roses 101

Beginning gardening is the best project to start in spring, because it gives you the opportunity to learn all about roses and how to grow them.

 

Roses 101
by National Gardening Association Editors

Rose

 With their great beauty, tremendous variety, and luscious scent, it’s easy to become passionate about those all-time favorites, roses. For many, roses are the symbol of a well-cared-for home, evoking images of that picket-fenced cottage awash with rambling roses. Like Oscar Wilde, who could "resist anything except temptation," those who give in to the temptation of roses are richly rewarded. In addition to being beautiful flowers for arrangements, roses lend themselves to a wide variety of crafts, providing everything from petals for creating potpourri, to the vitamin C-rich seed pods (called rose hips) for rose hip tea.

If you decide to plant a rose garden, do it with the understanding that, as with all temptations, there will be a price to pay. To do what they do so well–namely, produce quantities of beautiful, fragrant flowers–roses need special attention. Although it’s possible to mix any number of roses in with a shrub border, it’s far easier to be lavish with that attention if they are segregated in a small bed. Ten to 12 rose bushes will make a magnificent display, provide plenty of flowers for cutting, and require a bed only 8 feet by 12 feet or so. Any shape of bed will do, but generations of gardeners have favored the formal look of square, rectangular, or round beds, edged with stone or brick, often with a birdbath or sundial placed in the center for a little added interest.

When choosing roses, it’s helpful to know some of the terminology and uses:

Hybrid tea roses.

These are tall, long-stemmed roses ideal for cutting. They are usually the kind you send from the florist. In the garden, they are often featured as single specimens.

Floribundas.

Developed during the last century, these roses are shorter and bloom more freely, setting clusters of blossoms rather than a single bloom on a stem.

Shrub or landscape roses.

These can be tall or kept trimmed. They can be treated like a hedge and bloom from spring through fall. Their foliage fills in. They are spaced 18 inches apart in cool climates; 24 to 36 inches apart in warmer climates.

These roses have changed the way many people view roses. Landscape roses, especially when compared with traditional varieties, are impressive for many reasons: their natural disease-resistance, their willingness to grow in a variety of climates with a minimum of attention from the gardener, their compact growth habit (very little pruning required), not to mention the great beauty of their flowers, which are borne consistently over a very long season.

Tree roses.

These elegant roses grow in a cluster at the top of a stake. Miniatures grow 18 inches high; patio varieties 24 inches; and full tree roses 36 inches high. Tall ones can frame a doorway or line a walk. Smaller varieties can be grown in containers on the patio or porch.

Patio roses.

These grow two to four feet tall, bloom all season, and are well suited to growing in containers in small spaces. Sometimes they are planted in hedges as foundation covers. The foliage tends to be dense.

Climbers.

Climbing roses can form dramatic cascades grown over an arched trellis or trained over a fence, pillar, or post. They are sometimes used to create a privacy wall.

 

 

 

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This post was written by admin on March 31, 2009

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Growing Basil

Beginning gardening gives you the opportunity to grow all thoses lovely herbs that makes our food so tasty and healthy.

Growing Basil

If you do any Italian cooking at all, you’ll want to include basil in the herb patch. Basil can’t be planted until after the last frost date, but in the heat of summer it will produce abundantly.

Basil Types

There are many types of basil to choose from; the one offered by most garden supply stores and in mail order catalogs is bush or sweet basil, a compact plant growing to 18 inches or so during the season. There are a growing number of varieties of purple basil available. Their richly hued leaves add color and interest to an herb bed or even a flower garden. Use it like common basil, though expect it to be less sweet. When steeped in white vinegar, the leaves produce a lovely tint. Recently rediscovered by many cooks, lemon basil brings a citrus fragrance to both the garden and the kitchen. Thai basil adds a licorice flavor to typical basil leaves and tastes great in Asian cooking. You’ll also find cinnamon-flavored varieties, tiny-leaved, clump-forming types, and "lettuce leaf" basil, among others.

Getting Started

Start seeds indoors 6 weeks before the last frost date, and keep the temperatures around 70F for good germination. You can also sow seed directly in the garden (about 1/4 inch deep) after the last frost date when soil is warm. Set transplants or thin seedlings to stand at least 10 to 12 inches apart; more room (16 to 24 inches apart) will encourage low, bushy plants to develop.

Basil Care

Plant in full sun. Pinch the tip from the center shoot of basil after it has grown for 6 weeks to force side growth and prevent early flowering. If flower stalks do develop, cut them off. Mulch is recommended in hot areas since basil likes a steady moisture supply. Basil is generally pest-free. Frost-tender basil is easily nipped by early fall frost, so be sure to harvest if temperatures threaten to dip into the 30s.

Picking Basil

Basil is at its most flavorful when fresh. The best time to harvest is just as the plant starts to set flower buds, well before flowers bloom. Snip leaves or branches at this time and pinch off flower stalks to keep plants productive. You can also cut entire plants about 6 to 8 inches above ground, leaving at least one node with two young shoots intact. The plant should produce a second, but smaller harvest several weeks later.

Preserving the Harvest

Since the leaves lose some of their flavor when dried, freezing is the best method for winter storage. To quick-freeze basil, dry whole sprigs and pack them in plastic bags with the air pressed out. To dry basil, pinch off the leaves at the stem and dry them in a shady, well-ventilated area. Check in 3 or 4 days, and if they are not totally dry, finish drying in a the oven; otherwise the leaves may turn brown or black. Use the lowest heat possible with the door slightly open, turn leaves for even drying, and check them frequently.

By: National Gardening editors

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This post was written by admin on March 30, 2009

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Ripening and Harvesting Tomatoes

Watching the tomatoes get big and ripe is the rewards of beginning gardening. Ripening and harvesting tomatoes is a special skilled task, and the more we learn the better. Growing tomatoes can be very rewarding.

Ripening and Harvesting Tomatoes

One of the great joys of gardening is reaching for the first red-ripe tomato on the vine and biting into it. There’s a flavor, juiciness and pleasure you’ll never find in a supermarket tomato. Because tomatoes ripen from the inside out, when the outer skin is firm and red, you know you’ve got a beautiful ripe one.

Getting Them to Turn Red

The red color of tomatoes won’t form when temperatures are above 86oF. So, if you live where the summers get quite hot, leaving tomatoes on the vine may give them a yellowish orange look. It’s probably better to pick them in the pink stage and let them ripen indoors in cooler temperatures.

Tomatoes need warmth, not light, to ripen, so there’s no need to put them on a sunny windowsill. Place them out of direct sunlight – even in a dark cupboard – where the temperature is 65 to 70oF.

Frost-Time Harvest

Tomatoes succumb to frost, but don’t panic when the weatherman predicts the first one and your tomato vines are still loaded with green fruit. If it’s going to be a light frost, you can protect the plants overnight by covering them with old sheets, plastic, burlap bags or big boxes. It’s usually worth the effort because the second frost is often two or three weeks after the first one.

If a heavy freeze is on its way, go out and pick all the tomatoes. Green tomatoes that have reached about 3/4 of their full size and show some color will eventually ripen, and smaller, immature green ones can be pickled or cooked green.

Some people like to pull up the whole tomato plant and hang it upside down in a dark basement room and let the tomatoes ripen gradually. If you try this system, check them regularly to prevent very ripe fruits from falling onto the floor – splaat!

The Shelf Method

Another method is to put unripe tomatoes on a shelf and cover them with sheets of newspaper. Every few days check under the newspaper and remove ripe fruits or any that have begun to rot. The newspaper covering helps trap a natural ethylene gas that tomatoes give off, which hastens ripening. Some people wrap each tomato individually, but this causes a lot of work when you want to check for ripe tomatoes: You have to open each one! You can also place tomatoes in a paper bag with an apple or banana. The fruits give off ethylene gas, which helps to speed the tomatoes’ ripening process.

Fall Tomatoes

In parts of the southern and southwestern states you can grow an abundant crop of fall tomatoes. However, finding young tomato plants to buy in the middle of summer may be hard.

An easy way to solve this problem is to cut small suckers from spring-planted tomatoes and let them grow to full-sized plants. Instead of pinching out most of the suckers on your tomato plants, allow some to grow four or five inches. Then in mid- or late summer, cut the suckers from the plant, remove the lowest set of leaves and place the suckers in a jar of water or moistened sand or vermiculite. This will start the rooting process. Once roots begin to form, plant them in pots or directly in the garden. Firm the soil around the suckers and water them heavily for two or three days.

These plants will do just as well as any you could raise from seed or buy at a garden store. Just be sure they don’t have any insect or disease problems or you’ll be fighting them all fall. The plants will give you a nice fall crop of tomatoes, too.

By: National Gardening editors

 

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Pruning Tomatoes

Beginning gardening is a fun project, but we have to learn all the tasks needed for each and every vegetable, and growing tomatoes is no different, so lets learn how to prun tomatoes.

Pruning Tomatoes

Pruning means pinching off the shoots or "suckers" that sprout from the stem in the crotch right above a leaf branch. If you let a sucker grow, it simply becomes another big stem with its own blossoms, fruits and suckers! With staked or trellised tomatoes, pinch off the suckers and just keep the energy of the plant directed at one (sometimes two to three) main stems.

If you want additional stems to develop besides the main stem, allow the suckers closest to the bottom of the plant to grow. These will have more flower blossoms and are easier to train to the outside of the plant than suckers that sprout higher up.

Tomato plants really grow fast when the weather warms up, and new suckers form all the time, so you should go on "sucker patrol" at least twice a week during the heavy growing season.

If you live in a very hot, sunny area, you can let some of the suckers put out a couple of leaves and then pinch out the tips to stop their growth. The sucker provides a little more foliage to help the plant manufacture food and also to help shade tomatoes from the sun.

Pruning Unstaked Plants

Unstaked plants can also be pruned, although it’s not as necessary as it is for staked or trellised plants. Pruning improves ventilation, which can help to prevent disease problems. Pruning branches late in the season opens the plant up to more sunlight. Then on cooler days the plants are a little warmer, which is good for ripening tomatoes.

If you’re growing determinate varieties of tomatoes, go easy on any pruning. Because these plants are smaller and don’t continue to set new fruits throughout the season, heavy pruning may reduce your yield drastically. Also, be careful not to overprune in hot parts of the country. Tomato fruits need protection from the bright sun or they may develop sunscald. Tomatoes ripen better if they’re shaded some by foliage.

Pruning Tops of Plants

You can pinch off the tip of the main stem above the top blossom of indeterminate tomato varieties to keep a flourishing plant from getting any higher. This type of pruning can be helpful when a plant is outgrowing its support, or toward the end of the growing season when a taller plant won’t help much in terms of increased production. At that point, you’d prefer to see the plant put its energy into ripening the tomatoes already on the vine.

Pruning Roots

Root pruning is a special trick you can use to speed up the ripening of early tomatoes. It simply involves cutting some of the roots of a plant when it has three or four clusters of tomatoes on it. By cutting the roots, you put quite a bit of stress on the plant, which causes it to mature more quickly. It’s as if the plant were worried that it might not have time to complete its life cycle, so it rushes to mature some fruit and seed. The plant won’t die if you root-prune it correctly; the growth process is simply interrupted. But after a little rest, the plant is ready to start producing again.

To root-prune trench-planted tomatoes, take a long kitchen knife and make a cut down along just one side of the buried main stem, 1 to 2 inches away from it, going down 8 to 10 inches. If the tomatoes are planted vertically, cut halfway around the plant, 1 or 2 inches from the stem and 8 to 10 inches deep. If a knife doesn’t work well for you, try a spade or a shovel.

By: National Gardening editors

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