How a Compost Pile Makes for Excellent Yard Waste

How a Compost Pile Makes for Excellent Yard Waste

Basic Gardening Tips : When Is the Compost Pile Finished?

Pretty much any type of organic matter will eventually decompose if it has sufficient time and the right conditions. But, even with that said, you don’t want to toss any old organic materials on your compost pile. The main components that make up a good compost heap will come right from your yard and can included grass clippings and leaves. Small twigs and wood products that have been ground up into sawdust are acceptable as well.

In most backyard composting, the largest single contributor is the huge amount of leaves that rain down each autumn season. In addition, grass clippings can be added to the compost if they are not mulched and left to nurture the lawn itself. When lawn clippings are used in the compost mix they should be used together with other yard waste elements. The web site Organic Indoor Gardening will educate you further.

Branches, twigs, and small logs that are larger than one-quarter inch in diameter need to be run through a chipping or shredding machine before being added to the compost pile. Alternately, they can be cut up into tiny pieces with a corn knife to make them small enough for the composting process.

Many types of kitchen waste items are also appropriate to be included in a compost pile. Fruit rinds, vegetable peelings and scraps, coffee grounds and eggshells that have been crushed are all perfectly acceptable to use in composting and this is a very effective way to recycle these kinds of materials.

There are some organic materials that need to be avoided and which should not be added because of potential health hazards or nuisances that can be created. No type of pet feces should be included in a compost heap because of potential diseases that can be transmitted. Any kind of meat, whole eggs, dairy products and grease should also be excluded because they will attract rodents and other vermin.

In most instances, diseased organisms that are common to plants and weed seeds are destroyed through the process of composting, as long as these components are in the center of the heap and the temperature in the center reaches at least 140 degree F. But, experts caution that it is difficult to assure that such waste will be brought to the center during the composting process. As a result, putting large amounts of diseased plants or weeds with seeds into your compost heap could end up causing problems and should be avoided.

A good compost pile needs a balance of materials that will enhance the decomposition process. In general, keeping the mix to a ration of about one-to-one of brown material with green material works well. Brown material includes items such as manure, decaying leaves, and newspaper and cardboard. Green material would include the hedge and grass clippings, coffee grounds, and fruit and vegetable peelings.

In order to help speed up the decomposition of the organic elements, it is best to have your compost pile contained in some type of structure. In addition, this also helps to make better use of space and minimizes the amount of area needed for your project. Compost bins are a good way to start and they provide the structure to manage the compost and also helps to keep the appearance neat and clean.

Below are some of the most frequently asked questions for composting.

Every year in the spring individuals venture outside to start planting their gardens and flower beds. The allure of warm, gentle days seems to call out the winter recluses in an act of reseeding the world with beauty and divine scents. One thing that doesn’t make sense is the quantity of funds spent on commercial fertilizers and compost. Composting on your own is without cost as well as makes some of the best fertilizer in the world. For Sure, it does take some time just if you initiate work on it in the early stages you can have rich, dark soil when planting season comes around. Composting is environmentally friendly and once you know what has the ability to be composted as well as what can’t, you will be on your way to being eco-friendly. In this article the fundamentals of composting will be addressed for instance what it really is technically and in what way you can initiate your own compost heap in your own backyard.

Exactly what is composting?

Composting is the process of getting organic material and breaking it down through a mixture of chemical and animal processes to reach fertilizer and plant building material that is both inexpensive and highly effective. It is very environmentally friendly and is a outstanding way to stay away from paying those high costs for bags of fertilizer. You have the ability to employ those remaining food wastes, animal wastes, grass clippings, branches and other organic materials to produce a loamy type of material which will assist your plants to develop to their maximum potential like no other commercial grade fertilizer possibly has the ability to be. The great part is that it is without cost!

What should I use to assist the material break down?

If you wish to have your compost heap as well as material to decompose more quickly you are going to have to to maintain it in an aerated way, and moist and broken into smaller pieces. You have the ability to additionally help break down the material by adding worms and other small-scale insects into the pile that will help eat the organic material. Their waste products are filled with outstanding nutrients for the soil and before long you will have a compost heap that is available to hit the garden to initiate the cycle yet again. It is a circle of life that is a outstanding example of Mother Nature at her purest as well as shows what recycling have the potential to do for the environment.

Are there any ways to keep it from smelling so bad?

If you do not want your compost heap to smell dreadful you will want to stave off putting in food scraps and animal wastes for instance manure and pet droppings. In addition to the obvious odor as they decompose, they will attract additional animals and you will end up discovering your compost heap scattered over the yard. If you live in a area such as the suburbs you will wish to attempt to keep the smell to a minimum thus keep those foods as well as waste products away from your compost heap as well as keep just yard trimmings and tree clippings within the pile.

Do I need to water or turn my compost pile over?

Compositing works out best when the leaves and other materials stay damp. You don’t want the material pile soaking wet just you do desire it damp enough to aid the decomposition process. Once you dampen the top layers, grab a pitch fork as well as start turning the over the pile. Every time you reach a layer that is dry make certain and spray the surface area with water ahead of overturning a new layer.

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Compost Bins Provide Organic Recycling Alternatives

 Compost Bins Provide Organic Recycling Alternatives

How to Build a Compost Bin

Composting has become an increasingly popular way of dealing with organic items as well as using them for beneficial recycling reasons instead of simply turning them into greater waste. In addition to effective recycling, composting as well provides superior material that can be used as potting soil or as a soil additive for an organic garden. Compost bins are a very proficient way to assist individuals to manage their backyard composting as well as are an particularly good solution for apartment dwellers as well as others who have limited space.

There are a number of different types of composters on the market to meet a variety of needs and situations. Bins for composting can be constructed from materials that you already have around the backyard, or they can be bought from garden supply stores, especially those that specialize in organic gardening. In some places, the recycling centers furnish bins free or at a diminished cost to encourage individuals to recycle their organic materials themselves.

Of the different compost bins that are available, several are known as holding units. These low maintenance bins are a very good choice when space for a home composting project is limited, for instance those who live in apartments or householders who simply don’t have a lot room. Holding units do not require turning of the compost pile, yet the ensuing deficiency of aeration signifies the composting process will take longer, commonly from six months to two years.

Portable bins are another common type of bins and they are very like to the holding units but they are able to be taken apart, moved as well as reconstructed. Different types of materials can be used and mixed with this type of bin. Numerous kinds of plastic portable units are obtainable on the market to purchase or they can be constructed out of wood as well as wire fencing.

One of the better types of bins is the kind called turning unit composters. These are specifically set up to facilitate simple turning of the compost pile that assists to air out the heap. Turning units will develop amply decomposed material in a lower amount of time due to the fact the composting process is quickened by the augmented aeration, providing the bacteria to better do its job in the decomposition process. Additionally, people like turning units due to the fact there are less odor troubles because of the.

Turning unit composting bins can either be a set of bins or they have the ability to be a device that quite easily rotates or tumbles for example a barrel or a ball-type of unit. The drawback is that turning units in general cost most, are harder to build and require additional space. The organic materials to be composted additionally need to be collected individually until enough has been gathered to fill the unit to the right level as well as once it is full as well as the composting procedure starts, new materials cannot be added.

Uncomplicated heaps are an alternative for people who don’t want to purchase or construct composter bins. Turning a compost heap is constantly elective, only it should be kept in mind that the procedure of composting is accelerated when the waste material is turned at least a couple times a month.

You will want to place your compost bins with regards to the functional needs of your family as well as also taking into consideration the aesthetics of the surface area. You should not place your compost pile close to an area that you frequently employ for entertaining, even if you have it screened with fencing or plants. It should be placed where it gets a great deal of air circulation, in a partly shady place and near the garden area if feasible. Looking at this internet site Gardening Magazines will give you further revealing material.

Below are some of the most frequently asked questions for composting.

Each year in the spring individuals go outside to initiate planting their gardens as well as flower beds. The allure of warm, gentle days appears to call out the winter hermits in an act of reseeding the world with beauty as well as divine fragrances. One thing that does not make sense is the degree of cash expended on commercial fertilizers as well as compost. Composting on your own is without cost as well as makes some of the best fertilizer in the world. For Sure, it does take some time yet if you start work on it early you can have rich, dark soil when planting season comes around. Composting is friendly to the environment and once you have an idea what has the ability to be composted and what can’t, you will be on your way to being eco-friendly. In this article the fundamentals of composting will be addressed such as what it in reality is technically as well as in what way you can begin your own compost heap in your own backyard.

Exactly what is composting?

Composting is the process of taking organic material and breaking it down through the use of a mixture of chemical and animal processes to achieve fertilizer and plant building material that is both low-cost as well as extremely efficacious. It is very environmentally friendly and is a excellent way to avoid paying those high costs of bags of fertilizer. You can utilize those remaining food wastes, animal wastes, grass clippings, branches and other organic materials to make a loamy type of material which will assist your plants to grow to their maximum potency like no other commercial grade fertilizer possibly has the ability to be. The best part is that it is without cost!

What can I use to help the material break down?

If you want your compost pile as well as material to decompose quicker you are going to need to maintain it in an aerated way, and moist as well as broken into small-scale pieces. You can also assist decompose the material through supplying worms as well as other small-scale insects into the pile that will assist eat the organic material. Their waste products are filled with excellent nutrients for the soil and before you know it you will have a compost heap that is ready to hit the garden to start the cycle yet again. It is a life cycle that is a terrific representation of Mother Nature at her best as well as shows what recycling have the potential to do for the environment.

Are there any ways to keep it from smelling so bad?

If you don’t want your compost pile to smell dreadful you will wish to fend off putting in food scraps and animal wastes for instance manure as well as pet droppings. Other than the self-evident odor as they disintegrate, they will draw other animals and you will end up finding your compost pile spread across the grounds. If you live in a area such as the suburbs you will wish to make the effort to keep the smell as low as possible and so continue to keep those foods as well as waste products away from your compost heap and keep only yard trimmings and tree clippings in the pile.

Is it necessary to turn my compost heap over and do I need to water it?

Compositing works out best while the leaves as well as other materials stay moist. You do not wish the material pile sopping wet however you do wish it wet enough to assist the chemical decomposition reaction process. Once you wet the top layers, grab a pitch fork and begin turning the over the heap. Every time you get to a dry layer make certain and spray the surface area with water prior to turning over a new layer.

If you want to learn more go here: Gardening Composting and Landscape Gardening

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Why You Might Want Consider Picking Up an Odor Free Compost Pail

 Why You Might Want Consider Picking Up an Odor Free Compost Pail

Composting makes you think of two things one awesome, and one bad. The good thing is that you have found a proactive way to go green. The bad part is that composting can be tiresome and emit a fowl stench. Why not try an odor-free compost pail that hides in your kitchen?

Why Bother to Compost?

I feel strongly about composting (hint: if you want to start composting, buying a compost pail is the best place). After hearing a couple of friends talk about it, I read a few articles to become educated or semi-educated, because there s so much to learn! My excitement grew from realizing how vital it is for me to play a role in conservation. And you don t have to be a master gardener to compost your scraps. Even if you compost on a small scale, your contribution still matters. Over sixty percent of household waste is compostable, but Americans compost only about eight percent of their trash!

Green, Not Mean!

When my husband began composting yard clippings and other matter found in our backyard, I decided to add my organic kitchen waste. It s a good way to recycle rinds, peels, and clippings from any fruit and vegetables that you normally would toss away.

You can also compost your coffee grounds, tea bags, paper towels, and egg shells, all of which are bad for your garbage disposal.

Initially I used a simple waste pail, but it unfortunately drew fruit flies. If you ve ever been bombarded by a mean horde of fruit flies, you know how impossible it is to get rid of them! The pail also smelled really bad. It hit me full force one day when I returned home from the beach. As soon as I walked in the door I realized the smell of my kitchen compost pail pervaded my entire first floor, and it was just plain nasty.

Odorless Composting

Thankfully there are products out there to help you stay green without the mess and smell. You can buy an odorless compost pail that will sit on your countertop or mount inside the door of a kitchen cabinet. Most of them are manufactured from a recycled plastic or polyethylene material. You can also buy them in ceramic.

When they are made for use in the kitchen they usually run ten to twelve inches in height. Your choice really depends on whether you want to display your pail or not. All of them are easily cleaned, and the ceramic model can go through a dishwasher cycle. What keeps the odor at bay is a carbon filter that fits in the lid. As long as you keep the lid on, you will not notice any odor, and you will never have fruit flies! All of the models I looked at came with handles; I easily carry my pail outdoors and add the contents to my husband’s compost bin about once a week .

Know the Difference

Do you know the difference between the terms biodegradable and compostable? Biodegradable materials essentially break down completely, no matter how long it takes, into carbon dioxide, water, and matter that can be recycled as an energy resource. Composting is a step along the way in biodegrading. It is a mixture of decaying materials broken down by bacteria that can be used as fertilizer, erosion control material, neutralizers of contaminated soil, weed control in mulch, and other purposes. It replenishes minerals stripped from soil by erosion or over-farming.

Your Tools Make the Difference

It s important to start composting, but it s also important to find the tools to make it easy if keep on doing it for years and years to come. I know I wouldn t give up my odorless compost pail. The initial investment you ll spend twenty to forty bucks, depending on the style you like is well worth your contribution to the environment! And you ll be passing on good habits and knowledge to your children, the future caretakers of our world.

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The Benefits of Gardening the Hydroponic Way

The Benefits of Gardening the Hydroponic Way 

Hydrophonic Gardening

Many North Americans use gardening as a source for therapeutic relaxation.You will feel very happy and rewarded since gardening stimulates your senses. Hydroponics is the growing of plants without the use of soil. A variety of hydroponic gardening techniques exist and just about any plant can be grown with hydroponics.Many teacher use hydroponic gardening with their students when working on science projects since this type of gardening is considered to be very easy.

There are a variety of benefits associated with hydroponic gardening. When plants are grown using hydroponics, the roots do not need to search for required nutrients.The result of more abundant plant growth is that the nutrient solution is provided directly to them. Incorporating hydroponics into an outdoor garden can help add interest and intrigue.The right time to experiment with the various types of hydroponic cultivation is during the summer time due to the natural conditions available outdoors.Hydroponics benefits annual flowers, fruits, herbs, and vegetables.

With hydroponics, important growing factors such as light, temperature, and humidity can be controlled.Hydroponics requires less work and care since no soil is involved. There is no need for weeding and the worry of pests or soil borne diseases is drastically reduced. Hydroponics is always a soil less culture, but not all soil less cultures are considered to be hydroponics. Many of these cultures do not use the nutrient solutions, which are required for hydroponics.Solution culture and medium culture are the two main types of hydroponics.Solution culture does not use a solid growing medium for the roots, but it does use a nutrient solution. The medium culture has a sound growing base for the roots such as perlite, gravel, or sand culture.With the different ways that a nutrient solution is supplied to the plants creates multiple ways that hydroponic plants can be grown.

Hydroponics can be used to grow plants anywhere, even in your own backyard.Anything can be grown for the use of hydroponics such as garden crops to flowers. Hydroponic gardening is considered to be a clean and highly effective method for growing plants. There is less mess and less maintenance. Hydroponic gardening helps to eliminate the need for weeding and helps to cut down on diseases and pests. This form of gardening is also easily adapted to indoor environments, which means it can be used throughout the year to grow a gardener s favorite plants. The greatest advantage to hydroponics is the overall outcome of the plants, which will be of better quality and are much healthier. Gardeners can give nature a helping hand while enjoying the therapeutic benefits of their garden.Growing hydroponically will bring many wonderful improvements to the gardens of gardeners.

Hydroponics has always been an ecologically sound gardening choice.Hydroponic gardening will not add toxins to the environment, erode the soil, and it uses much less water than conventional gardening. Soluble nutrient formulas are re-circulated and used by the plants roots, which helps eliminate environmental waste. Plants tend to be healthier in a hydroponic system than those grown in soil, which makes them more pest resistant.Preventative measures created by the use of biological control agents. Harmful herbicides are simply not required because there are no weeds in a hydroponic garden.Organic crop cultivation in hydroponics is the reason that many gardeners are being to choose to grow organically.Gardening without the use of man-made chemicals or pesticides is organic gardening.The guarantee of no harmful fungicides or pesticides being used is what makes gardeners invest in the extras required by organic gardening. There are many organic nutrients and additives designed specifically for use in hydroponic gardens.

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Harvesting Potatoes

Harvesting potatoes and other root crops is the most interesting part og beginning gardening.

Harvesting Potatoes

After all your work of planting and caring for your potato plants, here’s how to get the most from your harvest.

New Potatoes

The earliest or "new" potatoes of the season are a treat not to be missed. They’re small, round, smooth and delicious. When you think you have early potatoes big enough to eat, reach into your early hills, feel for the best-sized spuds and ease them out. The plants keep right on growing and producing more.

During seasons when the soil has been quite moist (which makes hunting by hand tougher), dig up entire plants, harvest all the baby potatoes you can find and put the plants back in the earth. They’ll survive this rude transplant and produce quite a few more potatoes. But working fast is important; freshly dug potatoes shouldn’t stay in the sun very long.

The best tool for digging is a 5- or 6-pronged fork. Dig down under a hill, then lift up. The dirt falls between the prongs, and you’re left with a forkful of potatoes. There’s less bending this way, too.

Later Harvest

In the North, harvest the main storage crop in September, when the days are getting cool and frost isn’t far off. That’s when the plant tops are dying and sending the last of the vines’ energy underground to the tubers.

If you’ll be storing most of the late potatoes, wait for the best weather conditions possible before digging them up. Choose a warm, dry day after a period of little or no rain. Cloudy days are even better, since too much light turns newly dug potatoes green, changing their flavor.

After you dig a few hills, you’ll discover that all the potatoes in a hill are at pretty much the same level. Once you figure out how deep to dig your fork, you won’t injure as many potatoes. Of course, if you’ve got some beginners on the work crew, there’ll be a few spiked spuds. Put them aside for the evening meal; they won’t keep. A pointed shovel does a good job, too. You can dig deep enough next to a hill to raise the entire hill at one time.

Be gentle. Try not to rough up or bump the potatoes. Each bruise lowers the storage quality and appearance of the tuber.

After the Harvest

Leave the potatoes outdoors for an hour or so to dry. During that time most of the soil stuck on them should also drop off. There’s no real need to brush the tubers, although some people use a very soft brush gently to take off clumps of dirt. Don’t wash the potatoes; it’s hard to get them really dry afterward.

Put the potatoes in the dark after they’ve dried in the open for a short time. Don’t leave them in burlap bags or other containers where light can penetrate and start them greening.

If possible, storage potatoes should have a short drying or "curing" period of one to two weeks after the harvest. Curing allows any slight cuts or bruises on the potatoes to heal rapidly. Keep the tubers in a dark place with temperatures around 55o to 60oF with high humidity of up to 85 or 95 percent.

After a curing period, move the potatoes to a much cooler, dark place for winter storage. Experts recommend 35o to 40oF with moderate humidity and ventilation. If these standards are met in your basement or root cellar, you can expect mature potatoes to store for up to eight months. Higher temperatures will mean quicker sprouting and shriveling.

Because potatoes have to breathe in storage, a root cellar needs good air circulation The potatoes are still carrying on normal life processes, using oxygen to heal bruises and cracks and giving off carbon dioxide, heat and moisture. Good air circulation in the storage room helps this continuing process. A good way to store potatoes is in bins with slatted sides and bottoms; however, don’t pile them higher than 6- to 8-inches tall.

Occasionally, potatoes turn "sweet" during storage. This happens because potatoes convert a certain amount of starch to sugar, which is used up in the "breathing" process. When the tubers are stored in cool root cellars, the breathing slows down and they don’t use up all the sugar they produced. Occasionally, this extra sugar gives the potatoes a sweet taste if they’ve been taken directly from cool storage and cooked. However, this is rarely a problem. If your potatoes sweeten, just bring a week’s supply out of storage at one time and keep them in a warmer spot. The extra sugar will revert to starch — a process experts call "reconditioning".

A Note on Green Potatoes

When potatoes are exposed to light their skins start to turn green — a sign that a toxic substance called solanine is developing. This occurs if potatoes aren’t fully covered by soil while they’re growing, if you leave them in the sun for too long after the harvest, or if they aren’t stored in complete darkness. Potatoes you buy from the supermarket also turn green if they aren’t stored in a dark place.

Because solanine is slightly toxic, it’s possible to get sick if you have a large helping of greened potatoes. Peeling or cutting away green sections before cooking usually eliminates the problem, as most of the solanine is located in the spud’s skin.

By: the Editors of National Gardening

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Harvesting Root Crops

Harvesting root crops like onions and potatoes is the fun part about beginning gardening.

Harvesting Root Crops

After all your hard work, it’s time to enjoy your harvest. Here’s how to pick your crops.

Time to Eat!

Start harvesting beets and turnips early for their greens, and baby carrots when they’re the size of your little finger. This will give you a good start on a long harvesting period; the roots left in the row will have more room to grow; and you won’t be faced with an entire row of vegetables ready to be pulled on the same day. Besides, the smaller the root, the better it tastes!

For a few extra meals of beet or turnip greens, just go out and snip off the leaves you want. As long as you leave some greens on the plant, it will continue to grow more of

them — as well as growing a nice big root, too.

Pull the largest roots every time you harvest. People are tempted to leave the biggest ones, so they’ll grow even bigger. Don’t do it! By pulling the largest roots, you’re sure to have them before they’re so big they’re all woody and bitter. Again, this encourages the remaining plants to fill in and grow bigger, giving you what seems like an inexhaustible supply of medium-sized, savory roots.

Once some root crops get bigger, you may have to wiggle them back and forth (or loosen them with a trowel, pitchfork or spade) to get them out. If a top breaks off in your hand, don’t give up. Dig down into the soil and pull that root! If you water the soil before harvesting, the roots will pop out more easily.

Harvest whenever you need fresh roots, picking just enough. You should be able to enjoy all your spring-planted root crops in this fresh, garden-to-table fashion.

Where’s the Biggest Carrot?

If you want to find the biggest carrot in the row just by looking at the greens, remember this: the bigger the root, the darker the greens and the thicker the stem. If some of the greens in the row look darker than the others, you can be sure the largest carrots are underneath. With beets, radishes or turnips, the greens with the thickest stems will point the way to the biggest roots.

By: the Editors of National Gardening

 

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Growing Root Crops

By beginning gardening we get to learn so many differnet ways to grow the same root crop.

Growing Root Crops

Three essentials to a healthy crop of roots is thining, weeding, and watering.

The First Thinning

Thinning is a must with root crops. Crowded conditions cause them to become stunted or twisted around each other, and that’s not good. You have to thin if you want roots that are big enough to eat. Starting when the seedlings are approximately 1/4 to 1/2 inch tall, you can thin by hand or use the simple but effective iron-rake method.

Thinning with a rake is a snap. Just pull an iron garden rake once across the row with its teeth going into the soil about 1/4 inch. The teeth are spaced at intervals to catch just enough seedlings, pulling them from the row. Don’t look down as you’re doing this — it’s a horrible sight. You may think you’ve destroyed the whole row of plants, but don’t fret. The remaining ones will perk up in a day or so. You can thin a single row this way, too.

Raking also cultivates the soil, stirring up and killing "weedlings." Most young weeds haven’t had time to develop a deep taproot, so this initial thinning will dislodge them before they come up, exposing their shallow roots and killing them. Some of the worst garden weeds (pigweed, lamb’s-quarter and many others) have very strong taproots, and the idea is to catch these weeds before they put down deep roots.

By thinning with a rake, you also break any crust on the surface, aerating the soil at the same time.

You can thin by hand if the rake technique seems a little too drastic. Simply pull up enough plants that the remaining ones will stand one to two inches apart. You may not trust the rake method at first, but try it on at least part of a row. With the rake you can thin (and weed) all your root crops in just a minute or two, whereas thinning by hand seems to take forever.

The best time to thin is a few hours after a rain or a thorough watering, when the soil is damp but the plants have dried off completely. (Never weed, thin or harvest around wet plants, because you can spread disease from your hands and clothing without knowing it.) Damp soil permits seedlings to be pulled without disturbing the roots of the remaining plants, and any weeds that start to germinate after a rain will be uprooted, too. If it’s very dry on the day you decide to thin, water the surface of the soil, so you don’t pull up more seedlings than you intend.

Because beet seeds produce clusters of seedlings, the simplest way to thin them is with an iron rake. The rake teeth will uproot just the right number of seedlings. If you thin by hand, don’t try to remove any of the seedlings from within a single cluster. It’s too easy to disturb the remaining ones. Instead, pull up whole clusters, leaving two to three inches between them. If you like beet greens, sow the seeds a little thicker than is usually recommended on seed packages. When the beets are a little bigger, thin them again; along with the greens, you’ll also get a great harvest of marble-sized baby beets.

Thinning always seems more traumatic for the gardener than it is for the plants. People don’t like to pull up those helpless seedlings that have just barely made it through the soil surface. Think of it as helping your whole crop and giving you more food to eat, and it will soon be a natural part of your garden routine.

Weeding

Most root crops grow very slowly the first few weeks, and they can’t compete with weeds. But there are several time-saving ways to stay ahead in the weeding game.

Try this trick in the early spring before you even plant a seed: Wait a week or so between the initial soil preparation and planting day. During this time, go out several times and till or stir the soil. This exposes and kills the first batches of tiny "weedlings" lurking near the surface that may try to overrun your young seedlings.

Once your plants are up, you should stir up the soil within the rows every four or five days until the seedlings are well established. You can save a lot of bending over by using special hoes for weeding. Many have a strong, narrow blade with a curved gooseneck to let you pull weeds from even tight spots in the row without damaging the stems or roots of vegetables.

Once the plants get too tall to use a weeding tool, buckle down and hand pull every weed as soon as you see it. Keep in mind that any weed that grows in your garden is a robber, stealing sun, water and food from your crops, and in the end, stealing food from you.

To keep down weeds between the rows, stir the soil surface there, too. Or, you can put down a two- to three-inch layer of mulch (shredded leaves, straw, lawn clippings or even newspapers) between the rows to do the work for you. Mulch has the added advantage of keeping the soil moist and at an even temperature. Your root crops will really appreciate this.

Naturally, the more weed prevention you can accomplish early, the easier it will be later on. And by planting in wide rows, you’ll have very little hand weeding to do. But you’re bound to get some weeds, so go out to your garden daily and keep them pulled!

The Second Thinning and the First Harvest

Thin again by hand several weeks after the first thinning to give the remaining plants space to reach their mature size. (Enjoy the thinnings of these sweet, tender "baby" carrots and beets.) This is also when you would harvest the radishes planted as companion plants. In heavy soil, leave the White Icicle radishes until they’re quite large, then pull them to create that beneficial void in the soil. The beets, carrots, parsnips or turnips left in the row will push the soil around them into the gaps as they grow.

The third time you go out to thin, you’ll be harvesting for real. See how you can kill a few birds with one stone, as each chore combines with the others?

Watering

Root crops need about one inch of water per week. If you can supply this water evenly, with no long dry spells to inhibit the growth of the roots and greens, you’ll encourage a healthy crop. The exception to the one inch per week rule of thumb is the light sprinklings you should provide after sowing the seeds and until the seedlings emerge. Once the seedlings are up, return to the following watering habits:

Water when your garden needs it, not just by a calendar schedule. Don’t be tempted to water your plants if the greens are drooping occasionally in the late afternoon sun — this is normal. But, if they look wilted before eleven o’clock in the morning, they need water.

Another mistake gardeners often make is to give their gardens many light waterings instead of a few thorough soakings. Once your seeds are sprouted, soak the soil when it needs it to a depth of four to six inches. By watering deeply you encourage the taproot to grow down seeking the moisture. Shallow waterings promote shallow root growth, which is exactly what you don’t want, especially if you live in a drought-prone area.

How much does it take to water your garden to a depth of four to six inches? If you’re using a sprinkler, set a pan in the area you’re watering. When the water is an inch deep in the pan, the nearby soil will be sufficiently soaked-about six inches down.

By: National Gardening editors

 

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This post was written by admin on April 11, 2009

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Planting Root Crops

The thrill of growing root crops is one of the benefits of beginning gardening.

Planting Root Crops

With the planning and soil preparation taken care of, you’re ready to decide whether to plant in raised beds or trenches, and whether to use wide or single rows.

Easy Raised Beds

The simplest raised beds are nothing more than well-worked garden soil raked into a mound. They’re easy to make, even in the smallest garden, and they enhance vegetable growth.

Raised beds work because they make an ideal growing environment. Here’s how:

The soil in a raised bed has room on the sides to give with little or no resistance as the roots grow, even if it’s hard-packed or wet. Roots develop easily, which makes them healthy, well-formed and better tasting.

You can plant much earlier in the spring on raised beds because the soil warms up and dries out in the bed before it does in the rest of the garden. If you make some raised beds in the fall, you can plant on them very early the next spring. This way, you may be harvesting baby beets and carrots almost before your neighbors have planted a single seed.

If your garden stays waterlogged for a long time after each rain, raised beds solve that problem. On level beds, standing water cuts off the oxygen supply to the roots, and the weight of the water packs the soil so tightly it stifles root growth. On raised beds, water runs off and into the walkways in between. The soil in the bed dries out quicker, and the water seeps gradually back into the soil from the sides.

The added height makes the soil deep and loose, so you can grow longer carrots and parsnips than is possible on a level bed. In making raised beds, you place some of the valuable topsoil from the walkways onto them. This increases the total amount of topsoil on the seedbed.

Wide-row growing makes sense on raised beds to make the most efficient use of all that growing space. If you’re going to do the work making them, you might as well make it worthwhile by getting as much food from them as you can.

Raised beds are convenient and attractive. Your crops are 10 to 12 inches closer to your hands, saving you some bending and kneeling. It’s easier to keep children and pets from walking on the garden soil and packing it down or stepping on plants, because they can easily tell the walkways from the seedbeds.

Last, but not least, raised beds give your whole garden a neat, well-tended look that is very pleasing to the eye.

Raised beds are as easy as one-two-three! Once you have the soil well-tilled or spaded to a depth of six to eight inches, you can probably make a raised bed in less time than it takes to read this page. Here’s how:

Determine the width and length of the bed and the walkways, using stakes for guidelines. The dimensions will depend on whether you plant in wide or narrow rows.

Use a hoe to pull the loosely tilled soil from the walkways up onto the bed until it’s four to eight inches higher than the walkway.

Rake the top of the bed smooth, leveling the surface as you go. You’re all set to plant.

You fertilize, plant, thin and harvest in the same ways on raised beds as on level ground. You can add fertilizer to the whole plot before you make the beds — the fertilized soil will end up on the beds anyway. You can also mulch between the beds to prevent weeds and keep the soil moist.

There’s no need to brace the sides of beds six to 10 inches high unless you have the materials handy. For taller beds, railroad ties or planks give a neater appearance.

Raised beds work in almost every kind of soil, in just about any part of the country and with all of your garden vegetables. They dry out faster than normal beds, however, so raised beds aren’t recommended for very dry areas or sandy soils.

You don’t have to turn your whole garden into raised beds, but try growing a few root crops on some this year and you’ll be convinced — raised beds make sense!

Wide-Row Planting

Once you’ve prepared the soil, follow these easy steps for wide-row planting:

Mark the row by stretching a string close to the ground between two stakes spaced the length you want. You only need one string for a straight line — the width of your rake will determine the width of the row. Garden rakes are usually 14 to 16 inches wide.

Hold one edge of an iron garden rake next to the string and drag the rake down the length of the row. This marks off the area where you’ll broadcast the seeds.

Rake just the seedbed a few times to remove lumps and stones and get it really smooth and level before you plant. There’s no need to rake your whole garden. Don’t walk on the seedbed once it’s prepared or you’ll pack it down again. A smooth, clod-free, loose seedbed is one of the most important elements for gardening success.

Add extra bonemeal, rock phosphate or superphosphate now, raking it into the top inch of soil.

Sprinkle the seeds onto the planting area, trying to broadcast them thinly and evenly. Root crop seeds are small, and you’ll have to develop your own system to keep from sowing them too thickly. Beet seeds are larger than the others, and they’re easier to control. But once you get the hang of it, the rest are no trouble, either.

You’ll be thinning the row when the seedlings first come up, so don’t worry if a few extra seeds slip out of your fingers as you go. In fact, more seeds will ensure not having any skips or bare spots within the row.

Lightly sprinkle radish seeds in with your main crop. Use about five percent as much radish seed as the other vegetable.

Firm all the seeds into the soil with the back of a hoe. This anchors the seeds and gives them good contact with the soil, helping them germinate.

Cover the seeds with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of soil pulled from the side of the row with a rake, leveling the top of the seedbed as you go. The rule for all seeds is to cover them with fine, moist soil to a depth four times their diameter. These small seeds don’t need much soil over them. Only cover them more (with an extra 1/4 inch of soil) in midsummer plantings, when the weather is hot and dry.

Gently firm the soil again with the back of a hoe.

Single-Row Planting

Stake out a single row just as you would a wide row, stretching a string along the ground between two stakes to mark off the length of the row.

Rake the seedbed smooth right over the string, then mark your planting line by making a furrow beside the string. Do this with the corner of a hoe or the end of a rake handle, or by laying the hoe or rake handle beside the string and pressing it lightly into the soil.

Sprinkle the seeds thinly along the planting line, then sow radish seeds in the same line (again about five percent). Firm the seeds into the soil, cover with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of soil, and firm again.

Whether you plant in wide rows, single rows or multiple rows, you should keep the soil around the seeds moist for the first week after you plant. Root crops won’t germinate well in a dry seedbed. If the soil is dry, give the rows a light sprinkling of water right after planting. Because the soil is drier in the late summer, try this trick when planting for fall: Soak the seeds for an hour or so before planting to give them a head start on germination. Place them on a saucer or plate, barely cover them with room-temperature water, wait awhile, then plant. Once you’ve soaked the seeds you must plant them, because you’ve started the germination process. The wet seeds are a little harder to plant, but the results are worth it.

Keep an eye on the soil the first few days. If it rains, check it for a hard crusting when it dries. If the seedlings have to struggle through a crust, they’ll suffer. Make it easy for them by carefully scratching the top 1/4 inch of soil in the row with an iron rake, a weeding tool or a piece of wire (a coat hanger works well).

Tips on Sowing Root Crop Seeds

The easiest way to sow root crop seeds is to sprinkle them by hand, keeping your hand two to three feet above the row. This scatters the seeds more evenly than if your hand is down very close to the row. (If it’s a very windy day, of course, move a little closer!) Mix some fine soil or sand with the seeds to help even out the distribution.

You can also broadcast the seeds, mixed with dry sand, from a salt shaker if the holes are big enough, or right from the packet by tearing a tiny hole in one corner for them to slip through.

By:the Editors of National Gardening

 

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This post was written by admin on April 10, 2009

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Growing Parsley

Growing parsley and other herbs is one of the pleasures of beginning Gardening.

 

Growing Parsley

Parsley deserves recognition for more than its role as a garnish- it is rich in iron and vitamins A and C and is a good breath freshener.

Growing From Seed

Although parsley is a biennial, it is best sown every year because the leaf flavor is diminished in the second season. Growing it from seed requires patience, as the seedlings can take up to 4 weeks to emerge from the soil. Soaking the seeds overnight in warm water before planting will help speed germination.

Best Types

The curly leaf parsley (var. crispum) is the most common type because it makes such an attractive garnish. For cooking and chopping, the f lat-leaved parsley (var. neapolitanum) is preferable; it’s easier to work with and has a better flavor.

Growing Parsley

Sow in individual pots indoors or start outside in the garden. Plants do well in sun or partial shade, and prefer a rich, moist soil. Choose as weed-free an area is possible for garden sowing- you don’t want a jungle to develop while you’re waiting for seeds to germinate. The crop can handle cold weather, so start seeding 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost. Thin plants to stand 6 to 10 inches apart. Provide an even supply of water all summer. The cabbage looper may nibble on plants in some areas.

Harvesting Parsley

To harvest, cut entire leaves from the outer portion of the plant as you need them. To dry parsley, cut the plant at soil level and hang it in a shady, warm, well-ventilated area. Once thoroughly dried, crumble the parsley and store it in an airtight container.

Keeping it Fresh

To keep fresh parsley for as long as possible, store it in the refrigerator with the leaf stalks in water. A few plants can be dug up, set in large pots with extra soil, and brought indoors to a sunny window for light winter harvests.

By: National Gardening editors

 

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This post was written by admin on April 10, 2009

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Growing Dill

Growing herbs is one of the pleasures of beginning gardening, and growing dill adds to that gardening pleasure.

Growing Dill

Common dill grows to a height of about 3 feet; Bouquet dill is a smaller variety that generally produces fewer seedheads. Dill does poorly when ransplanted, so start the crop from seed in the garden. The plants thrive in rich, loose soil and a very sunny location. Plant I or 2 weeks before the last spring frost date if you want the seeds to mature when you are doing your first cucumber pickling.

Sow Seeds

Sow Seed 1/4 inch deep in rows 18 to 24 inches apart or broadcast over a bed 2 feet square and gently rake the seeds into the soil. Plants should emerge in 10 to 14 days; let them grow for 10 to 14 more days and then thin them to 12 to 18 inches apart. Make small sowings a few weeks apart

until midsummer to get a season-long supply of fresh leaves.

Dill Care

The plants are very spindly so you may have to stake the tallest plants to keep them from bending over in strong winds. Let a few plants mature their seed; if the area is not disturbed very much they will provide many new plants next season.

b>Dill Harvest

You can start harvesting the fern-like leaves about 8 weeks after planting. Pinch off the outer leaves close to the stem. Leaves have the highest flavor just when flower heads are opening.

Dill Preserving

Dry leaves in a dark place on a screen and seal them in an airtight jar; freeze leaves to retain more of their flavor. For pickling, cut off the seedheads when they’re light brown, dry them for a few days in paper bags with air holes in the sides, then shake seeds loose to the bottom of the bag.

By: National Gardening editors

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This post was written by admin on April 2, 2009

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